I didn't like the PG RF Astray's stock V-Fin so I scratch-built one out of the usual pla-plate and beam combo.
Perfect for the Dragon Ronin/1/60 Bust.
Whne I redesigned the Ronin I
made a larger Vfin to match the redesign. The one on the left is the stock, the one on the
right is what I made a couple of years ago. I'm itching for a double
Vfin, similar to what I did with the Chimera.
With the intent of going full AB, dropping if not minimizing my use of Bosny spray cans, I got an Airbrush + compressor set from a friend who decided to sell his unused set a couple of years ago (he was leaving to work abroad back then). So far, I haven't been able to use the the darned thing since I really don't paint that much. I don't even paint the kits I have modified, lest I really have to, and that I suppose is one of my many faults as a Gunpla "modeler," making it seem that I don't finish anything.
Accessibility and Practicality
Bosny spray cans are easily accessible. Hardware stores all around carry them, and they are rather cheap for one-off paint projects. They are handy, as such, you can't really run out of it if you have enough stocks on-hand, so you won't have to leave a project hanging. Of course a little planning is always involved in the process even with AB painting, making sure you have enough stock of whichever color of whiche…
take note that when using button batteries, you won't really need
resistors for your LED circuits. There is plenty of confusion out there
that insists on having resistors when doing LED mods. While having a
resistor is ideal, it's not a requirement for low power sources.
Button-sized batteries are rated at 1.4~3.4 volts and have a current
capacity of about 30 to 500 milliamps depending on the type and size.
Since the objective here is to make the set up as compact as possible,
you won't be using larger batteries that have higher ratings to light up
a single 1.5 V LED, hence no need for limiting resistors.
note that anything electrical or electronic, there are always three
things to consider: Power, Voltage and Curre…
Note: If you want to comment, identify yourself, with a LINK to your email when you comment, instead of posting as anonymous. I do not allow anonymous comments (and I do track comments), even those who commend, praise, or worship me, let alone IDIOTIC uninformed comments from CHEAPSKATE and cowardly bootleg lovers who simply don't know what OBJECTIVE means.
Ever since the Dragon Momoko (DM) Tallgeese III (along with I and II) was announced,
people have been raving about how good it looks, how DM did a number
on Bandai by releasing a III before it did, and that the DM TG III is
an "original" (more about that later). This review will cover the
comparison between the Bandai and DM TG II, on the technical aspect, to
keep it as objective as possible, since there is no Bandai MG TGIII to compare with DM's. I, for one was impressed with the early images of the TG III, and was looking forward to it.
off, a review about copyright and copyright…