"BATHALA" - PMX-003 MG The O vMatX Part V

Symmetrical Solipsism. Symmetry is always a tricky matter especially when doing symmetrical parts at separate times. I started these at the same time, but, as it went, I had to redesign them to make them streamline. The problem wasn't avoiding having to redo the parts, but rather, making them symmetrical at mid-stage of the build. So I had to employ a few old tricks maybe a few of you already know.

We generally use masking tape to mask parts during painting, and maybe keep cemented parts in place as they bond and cure. But, I also use masking tape to achieve curved-parts symmetry by applying tape over the curved surface I want to replicate, marking the edges I want to copy with a pencil, then apply that over a slab of WHIPS (or plaplate). I then simply cut the part along the lines I've made, adjusting the cut as needed, then flip the cut part. With this technique, I can achieve very close symmetry with little room for error.





Using the same masking tape technique, I outlined the main half-leaf shape. Since I've already braced the outer edge of the layered armor, and with the marking tape curving in instead of out, I have an extra millimeter or so to contend with with the replicated mirror-version of the armor. This can be adjusted later on.



The rest is easy. All I had to do in this case is mirror the ribbing and connective parts.





Then pencil marks are planned details, which most probably done with 0.5mm WHIPS.

1/20 FSB: RMX-000X Raptor X Part 5

The Shin Saga

I've had a few sketches as well as a few more bad dreams and nightmares as to how the shin armor would eventually look like, but not of them quite made the cut. I had about 4 or 5 cardboard prototypes of the shin armor, and posted the last two in my previous post.

Even in my initial fittings, I deliberately made the armor over-sized since it's easier to remove than it is to add later on. Using the cardboard prototype, I cut whole sections of 1.0mm HIPS for the side and mid sections of the armor.





To fold the HIPS (or plaplate, as the case may be), I scored the underside of the slab twice, 0.5mm apart, and at most 0.5mm deep. I then carefully ran my knife along one of the score lines at an angle to create a V-shaped groove. This can also be achieved with a V-shaped scriber, but it'll take a lot more control as opposed to a knife. I also used a very blunt knife for a more controlled cut, and as you may well see, even a blunt knife can cut deep.

Using a ruler placed along the groove, I carefully folded the slab into the groove to the angle I needed. This is the same method I used to fold the shin armor's main sections.





At this point, I've double-layered all the parts (making them 2.0mm thick), including the intermediaries that will hold the three main sections. Like in previous updates, pegs, along with tension between parts, will hold the entire assembly together.





With that done, the shin armor connects to the leg frame via slots. This was a bit of a challenge since the sides are angled, so I had to cut identical angled slabs 3mm thick, attached two of them to either side of the prepped leg frame and aligned them with each other with slight difficulty. This locks the leg parts that hold the calf pistons, and the opposing action also partially locks the shin assembly as well. Regardless, The peg assembly is employed in consideration of part casting (and painting, for that matter). The shin armor, ultimately, will be glued together as one part.





Test fit. Further detailing will be made, and I might trim the shin armor. I've been itching to make the front of the foot larger, and this just made the itch a rash.