Saturday, February 6, 2021

Gunpla™ and Modeling Terminologies


About Kits and Building
  • Kit: That would be what you are building, what will drain your wallet, what will make your Mom/GF/BF/Wife/Husband angry at you (depending on the situation) and will ultimately make you happy.
  • Kit Variant: A recolor or "special" edition of a pre-released kit.
  • P-Bandai: Limited edition kit variants which can only be purchased online through Bandai Hobby Shop, but also through online sellers.
  • Builder: That would be you, the builder of kits.
  • Part: The actual part of the kit used in the build, indicated on the Runner.
  • Runners: The grid of plastic that holds the Parts of the kit.
  • Trees: Same as Runners
  • Sprue: The leftover channel where plastic is injected and expelled (also, Riser).
  • Nubs: The small leftover “lumps” when the Part is cut from the Runner/Gate. Nubs can be thin or thick depending on the Gates it’s connected to.
  • Nubmarks: A mark left after cleaning the Nubs.
  • Gates: The point where the Runner meets the Part of the kit (the entry point of the plastic into the part. In Bandai kits, this is marked with a small arrow, which indicates where one should cut first.
  • Undergate: Gates located under the Part instead of on the side or detail surface.
  • PlaMo: Stands for Plastic Models and refers to plastic model kits for different genres.
  • GunPla®: Stands for Gundam™ Plastic and refers specifically to Gundam Plastic model kits.
  • Resin Kit: A kit made of Resin.
  • Resin Conversion: A type of Resin Kit that uses Resin pieces to convert an existing unit to either an upgraded one or a completely different unit.
  • OOTB: Stands for Out Of The Box. Building a kit as is with no modifications.
  • OOBB: Stands for Out of Box Build. Same as OOTB.
  • Straight Build: Same as OOTB.
  • Kitbash: Combining parts from different kits to make one unique kit.
  • Mods/Modifications: Altering a part for fitting or to change it into something else.
  • Scratchbuild: Completely building a part for a kit (or building a whole MS) from scratch using various materials.
  • Clamshell: Describes two, often mirror parts that are connected together to make a single part, i.e. shoulder sections. A clamshell can be separate parts or two parts of a single mold.
  • Flash Line: Excess plastic excreting from the adjoining edges of a clamshell mold.
  • Seam/Seam Line: The gap between two adjoining parts.
  • Polycaps: Intermediary parts that are made with polyethylene (PE) plastic. These are semi-flexible and are usually used to connect joint sections.
  • Decals: Add-on details that are either paper, foil or clear plastic sticker, dry-rub, or water slide decals. Most kits come with sticker decals, but some come with dry-rub and/or water slides.
  • WIP: Stands for Work In Progress. This would be what a Builder is currently working on.
Kit Types Based on Grade/Scale
  • SD - Super Deformed.
  • SG - 1/200 Speed Grade. These kits are molded in white plastic and comes pre-painted and decaled (limited articulation and poseability).
  • EG - Entry Grade. These kits are molded in 3 colors with no polycaps.
  • FG - 1/144 Stands for First Grade molded in a single color with no polycaps (no articulated elbows and knees, limited poseability).
  • HG - 1/144 Stands for High Grade (Improved articulation and detail).
  • RG - 1/144 Stands for Real Grade (full-frame, small scale, detail and parts separation).
  • NG - 1/100 Stands for No Grade (user appended, technically, non-UC HGs in 1/100 scale).
  • FM - 1/100 Stands for Full Mechanics. Detailed and framed kits that began with the 1/100 Iron-Blooded Orphans series.
  • RE/100 - 1/100 Stands for Reborn. These are 1/100, non-framed, fully-detailed kits from the UC line.
  • MG - 1/100 Stands for Master Grade. Most modern MGs have full inner frames separate from the armor, while some older MGs only have torso core frames.
  • HiRM - 1/100 High Resolution Model. This is a hybrid kit that comes in pre-assembled Die cast Metal and plastic composite frame and armor parts in runners.
  • MB - 1/100 Stands for Metal Build, a line of metal and plastic (PVC) composite figures. Some MB kits have extra pre-cut parts for assembly.
  • GFF-MC - 1/100 Stands for Gundam Fix Figuration Metal Composite, a line of of metal and plastic (PVC) composite figures which are similar if not the same as and precursors of MBs.
  • PG - 1/60 Stands for Perfect Grade (full articulation and parts separation).
  • MS - 1/60 Stands for Metal Structure figure.
  • verKa - a series of kits designed from ground up, including engineering of the kits to the creatives for packaging and manual design by Hajime Katoki. They are packaged in signature white boxes
Plastic Types
  • PVC: Stands for polyvinyl chloride. A type of plastic used in certain Gunpla kits and figures.
  • PE: Stands for polyethylene. A type of plastic used in polycaps.
  • PS: Stands for polystyrene. A type of plastic used in Gunpla kits. Used mostly in armor pieces. Some HG are all PS.
  • PP - Stands for polypropylene. A type of plastic used in Gunpla kits similar to PE but stiffer and denser, used in combination with ABS in manipulators and joints (in RGs, PGs and v3.0 manipulators).
  • ABS: Stands for acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. A type of plastic used in GunPla kits. Used mostly in MG/PG frames and in some HG pseudo frames, ABS is a tough but flexible plastic. Sensitivity to cement varies depending on the color of the ABS, with black being the toughest, and red the most receptive to cement.
  • Resin: A type of material used on some non-plastic kits.
  • TPE: Stands for Thermoplastic Elastomer. This is the rubbery plastic in some older MGs (like the rubber hands and feet of G-Gundam kits) and the wing tips of the PG Wing Zero Custom.
Painting
  • Airbrush: A paint application tool.
  • AB: Stands for Airbrush
  • Hand Paint: Applying paint by hand with brushes.
  • Hand Brush: Same as Hand Paint.
  • Spraycan: Canned pressurized paint with a nozzle that serves as the applicator.
  • Rattlecan: Another term for Spraycans.
  • Decant: The process of expelling air, then the paint, from rattlecans for later use in AB.
  • Primer: A chemical used to prepare a surface to be painted. Not to be confused as a type of Paint. Primer is (slightly) chemically different to regular paint. Can also mean the application of a coat of Primer (prime).
  • Paint: A chemical used on surfaces to give it color.
  • Acrylic: A type of Paint. Weakest of the three main Paint types. Most acrylics are water-based and can be thinned by plain water, but, becomes water-resistant when dry/cured.
  • Enamel: A type of Paint. Middle ground when it comes to Paint types. Enamels can be thinned by enamel thinners.
  • Lacquer: A Type of Paint or Thinner. Strongest among the three Paint types. Lacquer is basically varnish mixed with colors. Lacquer can be combined with Acrylic bases, and can be thinned or stripped with alcohol.
  • Thinner: A chemical used for Thinning or Reducing paint.
  • Thinning: Adding Thinner to Paint to make it more fluid/less viscous.
  • Retarder: A chemical added to Paint to slow down its drying time, giving it a chance to settle down and self-level. Usually used on Acrylics and replaces Thinner.
  • Top Coat: A clear, colorless type of Paint used to seal and protect Paint layers.
  • Flat: A type of Paint or Top Coat or finish that is not shiny or glossy.
  • Matte/Satin: A finish midway between flat and glossy.
  • Gloss: A type of Paint or Top Coat or paint finish that is shiny or glossy.
  • Semi-Gloss: Same or similar to Matte.
  • Future: A type of glossy floor coat used as acrylic top coat that can be applied by Hand Brushing or with an AB.
  • Base/Buffer Coat: The first Layer of paint. Applied after Primer if Primer is used. Used to set the tone of the Color Coat. Can be skipped by using the corresponding Primer color.
  • Color Coat: The coat of paint that the will be the surface’s final color.
  • Candy Tone: A technique of using a clear paint over a metallic buffer.
  • Pooling: Paint collecting in a certain spot mostly on the edges and panel details, usually from a very thick coat of paint, or from Runs.
  • Runs: Paint that is flowing on the surface, usually due a thick coat of paint and pulled by gravity and collects in Pools.
  • Brushstroke: The direction a paint brush is going. Can also mean the same as Brush marks.
  • Brush marks: Fine lines left by brushes after every stroke.
  • Autolevel: A Paint property where the Paint makes itself smooth and level on its own as it dries.
  • Leveler: A chemical added to paint to make paint level and smooth as it dries.
  • Retarder: a chemical additive that delays the drying of paint to allow it to settle and level properly.
  • Overspray: Excess paint that accumulates (in details, edges and panel lines) because of too close a spray distance or too much pressure.
  • Misting: a technique employed in AB and spraycan painting where parts are coated with paint mist over a significant distance. Paint build up is slow, but more even, requiring more than just the usual number of coats compared to the closer distance. Ideal for spraycan painting.
  • Masking: The process of covering certain sections of parts with masking tape or masking solution to shield a previous layer of paint from a new layer of a different color, to create color separation.
  • Orange Peel: The results when spraying too much paint or laying down one coat after the other and not allowing the previous coat to fully dry. It can also be caused by uneven or unprimed surfaces This very much looks like how orange skin looks like, with pits and bumps.
  • Bottom-feed: A type of AB where the paint container is at the bottom.
  • Siphon-feed: Same as Bottom-Feed.
  • Gravity-feed: A type of AB where the paint container is at the top.
  • Side-feed: A type of AB where the paint container is at the side.
  • Dual-action: A type of AB trigger where two actions are done to start spraying. First, pressing down on the trigger starts the air flow, while pulling it back on trigger sprays the paint.
  • Single-Action: A type of AB trigger where pressing down on the trigger will release both air and paint.
  • Internal Mix: A type of AB where the mixing of paint and air in done internally.
  • External Mix: A type of AB where the mixing of paint and air in done externally as air is expelled.
  • Comp: Short for Compressor, a machine that provides air for ABs.
  • PSI: Stands for Pounds per Square Inch. the amount of pressure released by a Compressor.
  • Working Pressure: The PSI a Compressor is set to while it is being used.
Tools and Materials
  • Side Cutter/Nipper: A tool used to remove Parts from Runners.
  • Hobby Knife: A multipurpose pointed straight edge blade mounted on a shaft.
  • Markers: Pens used for Panel Lining and Detailing.
  • Sandpaper: Abrasive sheets of various grits used to smooth rough surfaces and remove scratches.
  • Sanding board: A tool that looks like a manicurist’s emery board used for sanding.
  • Sanding sticks: Same as/similar to Sanding boards.
  • Grit: A unit of measure of how rough sandpaper is. The lower the grit, the rougher the sandpaper.
  • Putty: Used in making repairs and filling.
  • Scribing Tool: A tool use for Scribing panel lines. There are specific scribing tools and chisels, but one can use blunted knife blades and compass needle points for scribing.
  • Cement: A type of adhesive used in GunPla building.
  • CA Glue/Superglue: CA stands for Cyano Acrylate, which is a resin-based glue.
  • Dremel/Router: A multipurpose electric hand tool used for cutting, carving, sanding, grinding, and buffing.
  • Pin-Vise: A hand tool used to hold micro drill bits and pins.
  • Plaplates/Polystyrene Sheets: Sheets of plastic with varying thickness used in Scratchbuilding. “Plaplates” is a brand specific to Tamiya.
  • HIPS: Stands for High Impact PolyStyrene. Same as/similar to Plaplates.
Detailing
  • Decals: Detail markings on kits.
  • Waterslide: A type of Decals that needs water to apply and adhere.
  • Rub-On: A type of Decal that is rubbed-on the surface to apply.
  • Sticker: Decals with adhesives
  • Dry Transfer: Same as Rub-On.
  • Panel Line: Lines and groves on the surface and lines where angles meet.
  • Panel Lining: Filling in Panel Lines with color.
Techniques
  • Progressive Sanding: Technique used to remove nubs or make surfaces smooth with sandpaper by increasing sandpaper grit gradually starting from coarse to fine.
  • Buffing: Process of rubbing cured paint (or even bare plastic) to make it smooth and shiny.
  • Rubbing: Same as Buffing
  • Pre-shade: A type of shading technique where shading is added before the Color Coat is applied.
  • Post-shade: A type of shading technique where shading is added after the Color Coat is applied.
  • Wash: An advanced painting technique. Can also be a very thinned mixture of paint and thinner used for various Washing purposes.
  • Panel Line Wash: A type of Wash technique used to paint Panel Lines.
  • Spot Wash: A type of Wash technique used in Weathering.
  • Reverse Wash: An painting technique similar to a Wash but in reverse.
  • Mod: Short for Modifications.
  • Weathering: Applying details and shades to a kit to give it a more realistic look.
  • Scribing: Adding Panel Lines to the surfaces of a kit.
  • Drybrushing: A Painting/Weathering technique.
  • Battle Damage: Adding details on a kit to simulate the look of going through a battle.
  • Plaplating/PS Plating: Armor detailing with pieces of shaped plaplates or HIPS.
Slangs
  • Hiatus: Means to take a break from a certain activity or from work. In GunPla Terms, “Pinipilit umiwas sa tukso” (avoiding all temptation).
  • PNP: Stands for “P**A, nalaglag/nawawala part/polycap!” In English: “Sonnavab***ch/F**K, I lost a part/polycap!” 
  • Blackhole: When a part one is working on slips or flies from one's grip into the unknown, comes right after PNP.
  • Dibs: English slang. Usually means “Akin na yan, ako ang unang nakakita” (It's mine, I saw it first). Muttered when someone offers a kit/set for sale that's too good to pass up.
  • Haul: items purchased (Having All U Like) often in bulk.
  • Backlog: Stash of unbuilt kits
Timelines
  • UC - Universal Century, starts from UC0068 (origins) to UC 0223 (G-Savior)
  • FC - Future Century (G-Gundam)
  • AC -After Colony (Gundam Wing)
  • EW - Endless Waltz (Gundam Wing)
  • MC - Mars Colony (Frozen Teardrop)
  • AW - After War (Gundam X)
  • CC - Correct Century (Turn X)
  • CE - Cosmic Era (SEED/Destiny/Astray)
  • AD - Anno Domini (Gundam 00)
  • AG - Advance Generation (AGE)
  • RC - Regild Century (Reconguista)
  • PD - Post Disaster (Iron Blooded Orphans)
  • BF/BD - Build Fighters / Build Divers. A set of overlapping series that tell stories about Gunpla building and competitions.
Miscellaneous
  • Shiny/Glossy Finish: A surface finish that reflects light. Ideal for showroom or just-out-of-the-factory concepts.
  • Matte Finish: A dull surface finish that reflects little light. Ideal for week/month-old effects and a precursor to weathered/battle-damaged effects.
  • Mirror-like Finish: A surface finish that reflects light and images, mostly achieved with chrome paints.

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The Newbie Stash

Source This is a collection of specific guides for reference in Gunpla Building and Modeling in General.  • Gunpla™ and Modeling Terminolog...