Demystifying Bosny Spray Cans


With the intent of going full AB, dropping if not minimizing my use of Bosny spray cans, I got an Airbrush + compressor set from a friend who decided to sell his unused set a couple of years ago (he was leaving to work abroad back then).  So far, I haven't been able to use the the darned thing since I really don't paint that much.  I don't even paint the kits I have modified, lest I really have to, and that I suppose is one of my many faults as a Gunpla "modeler," making it seem that I don't finish anything.

Accessibility and Practicality

Bosny spray cans are easily accessible.  Hardware stores all around carry them, and they are rather cheap for one-off paint projects.  They are handy, as such, you can't really run out of it if you have enough stocks on-hand, so you won't have to leave a project hanging.  Of course a little planning is always involved in the process even with AB painting, making sure you have enough stock of whichever color of whichever paint of whichever process one utilizes so that one does not run out of paint or material midway during a build.

Provided you source out the cheapest, to which, this is no big secret, I buy mostly "in bulk" at Pasilio 1C 168 Mall at Divisoria, cans are relatively economical, though someone did point out earlier with the number of cans I've already used, I could have gotten an AB.  He of course is correct with regards to the economics, but with the small space I have, and the time constraints, painting with AB is such a time-consuming process.  I will have to plan each color pass down to the smallest part and paint those in sequence, something I don't really need to do with cans.  If I miss something, or, make a mistake, I can simply start over without having to worry about the original setup.  I also do not have to worry about mixing paints.

As I mentioned, I did get an AB eventually (two ABs, in fact, I have gotten one earlier as a freebie), but, as of this writing and as I have mentioned previously, I haven't even broken-in those two and the compressor.

For me, the practical advantage of using cans is the convenience;  even if I run out, I can simply run to the nearest hardware store which is actually just walking distance (see what I did there) to get a fresh can or two of the color I need (provided of course, it didn't happen at night).  But, I've been using cans well long enough to know if I'll run out or not.  I can easily estimate how many cans I'll be using for a project, assessing the amount BEFORE I even start painting.  More so, I've started stocking up on the colors I frequently use, specifically the grey primer, Honda Red, Nickel, flat white and flat black, since I essentially use them all the time.

Too Close, Too Thick for Comfort


A lot of people mistake that paint in cans are too thick, especially with industrial ones like Bosny.  They are partially right, because these paint cans are really made for use on cars and large surfaces, as such, they are designed to accumulate more readily, coat quickly and dry quickly.  On my first attempts at painting with cans, I've screwed up several times.  The most common mistake is spraying too close and overspraying.



Bosny Metallic Red tends to be too thick
especially when sprayed too close

Also, Bosny cans are not equally thick across the board.  Some are actually rather thin, like Primer Grey and Flat Black, and do take a few passes to get enough coverage.  The above photo shows my first experiment on painting with Bosny Flat Black, Gold 351 and Metallic Red, all sprayed too close.  You can see how thick the paint is on the edges, even with Bosny surprisingly having a self-leveling property.

Bosny is quick drying, provided certain conditions are met. Spraying too close leaves the underlying layer of paint wet and uncured for hours, and with varying humidity, the difference of dryness between layers can cause that nasty surface "curl" effect when the upper coat dries faster than the lower one.

The Distance Between Us


The standard distance I've been using was 6 inches, but through the months I've been experimenting, I've determined that the best distance is actually around 12 inches from the surface, in quick bursts, effectively misting the paint.  Misting keeps the paint particles small, and it allows the paint to dry halfway and fully as it lands on the surface. 





My first attempt with the MatX Multitone/Color Change/Gradient,
which back then, no one really attempted with cans.  This is achieved
with Flat Black, then Gold 351 and Honda Red 67
sprayed at opposite angles to create the gradient effect

I've stopped using Bosny Metallic Red (along with Metallic Blue and Metallic Black) back then because even with dry conditions and considerable spray distance it still tends to be too thick.  The Bosny Metallics are also opaque, so it was pretty useless having laid down a layer of gold before it, which also contributed to thickness.

So far, I've found that Bosny Gold, Silver, Aluminum, Aluminum Silver and Metallic Silver are good buffer paints for clear and candy tones.  With misting, they can cover a part without obscuring the details.  The photos above and below show my first attempts with the buffer/candy tone technique, and discovered quite by accident that spraying at opposite angles could create a somewhat color change depending on the angle to which the light hits the painted part, which is actually more of a gradient.




Though I've seen gradients done quite easily done with AB, I haven't seen anyone else do this with cans on small parts back then.

The Myth Behind the Mist

There is no singular technique in achieving a great paint job with cans, but, the best technique so far, at least for me, is misting.  The main issue people have with it is paint wastage; misting does require one to spray at a more significant distance, and the farther you spray, the larger the spray diameter.  So people will always tend to spray closer to economize on paint, without realizing that that method is actually more unpredictable, especially since cans do lose pressure as the paint is expended.  The result; overspray and uneven coats.

Misting allows one to gauge where and how the paint lands on a certain surface, and not all surfaces get painted the same way.  People also make the mistake of keeping the can stationary while depressing the nozzle.  Both the part and can must be moving constantly in opposite directions, with curved parts rotated as the paint is misted to give it more coverage.  Misting keeps the paint particles small, and as I have mentioned early, dry quickly as it lands on the surface.



With misting, I've been able to avoid overspray and achieve a paint layer close to that of an AB (of course, I wouldn't want to argue with any AB user that it's the same, hence "close").  The above shows several coats of Flat Black, Nickel Chrome and Honda Red 67 (which takes a LOT of passes to achieve a full coat), and as you can see, the surface details remain clear even after the Flat Clear (which creates the muted metallic/red titanium effect).

Compare that to a relatively <simpler> Titanium White (Flat White, Pearl White, Flat Clear)





The Only Drawback

So far, the only drawback with Bosny paints is that it has a very "limited" range of colors.  I don't follow recommended color schemes anyway, more so, I often use my favorite color, RED and variants of it, so, that has never been an issue to me.  But recently, I've been experimenting on combining flat and candytones to create new colors.

Bosny recently introduced the White Pearl, a semi-clear pearlescent white "top coat," along with Flat Clear, which is what I've used to create the titanium-white effect with the Stein.  Using pearl white over ANY color gives it a dulled-down pearl/glittery effect.

Bottom: Standard metallic buffer>clear red>flat clear combo.
Top: with Bosny White Pearl

White Pearl creates a lighter, almost pinkish red tone, somewhat like an "old rose" feel to it.  This expands the color scheme a bit, as such, I can use it for any "Char" mobile suit variation, instead of the "salmon pink" which actually more orange.  Adjusting the densities of the buffer, candy tone and White Pearl creates subtle color variances which I can use to enhance gradient effects.

There's also Black Tint, a "clear black" top coat, which is equivalent to Tamiya's "Smoke."

Left: Bosny Gold 351
Right: with Bosny Black Tint
Left: Standard Candytone Red
Right: with Bosny BlackTint

Black Tint gives regular colors a darker shade, with the added effect of being almost black in some sections depending on the angle of light as the part curves.

It's also worthwhile to note that Don Suratos aka DC23, won his first BAKUC World Championship with a split-color Kampfer painted with Bosny.  He was actually the one who inspired me to paint with cans.



Comments

  1. So, if you gave up on these bosny cans (never used em) what do you now use for a candy effect? Rly like the looks of it and would love to try this too.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Candy tone effect is achieved similarly with AB using the same technique of overlaying a candy tone or clear color paint over a silver or gold buffer.

    It doesn't seem like I'd be giving up cans any time soon.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Want to paint my RG kits but as I don't have an airbrush spray cans are my only option. Heard that Bosny or other commercial grade spray cans are too HOT ( solvent strong enough to melt or make styrene kits brittle). Any problems with that?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. What makes kits brittle over time is when parts are soaked in strong solvents. In my experience, even Tamiya acrylic thinners, when used improperly, can make plastics brittle. The solvents in Bosny paints evaporate quickly as it travel in air, and is not likely to damage your kit. It might be a case of the plastic being saturated with solvent, especially when one sprays too close to the plastic, and the solvent doesn't dry as quickly as it should.

      So far, I haven't had any problems with any of my Bosny-painted kits, but, RG plastics are much thinner than MG/NG plastics.

      Delete
  4. On the picture you used in misting part i noticed there are parts with different color. What is the technique to be able to achieve that look?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I painted some of the areas of the silver with copper (copper glazing), before painting over the red candy tone, creating a two-tone effect (red and darker red).

      Delete
  5. Sir,

    I've come across your blog by accident, and what a revelation it has been!! Gunpla's also my hobby, and I just recently started getting "serious" with it. Since I also swear by Bosny, I find your tips spot on and practical! Hope you can also share more, like color combo's or what type of paints you use, etc.

    Keep up the good work!!

    ReplyDelete
  6. you can still use your canned paint through an airbrush by decanting them. for me, this is the meeting of the best that both techniques offer. :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes, I'm familiar with decanting paint.

      Delete
  7. Hey sir.. Really learned something herw.. But have you tried using the bosny chrome or gold/chrome as your candy tone? Or the bosny flake that comes with the black paint in the can for a 2 in 1 job? Reactions? Noob here..

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Bosny Chrome paints are not ideal for the candy tone technique, they will dull down. I was talking about the Nickel Alloy M0001, Antique Pewter.

      Delete
  8. Hey sir.. Can you achieve candy tone with bosny flakes? The ones with black paint in the can? And any reactions in using bosny chrome? Sorry if there are multiple posts 1st time posting here and with a phone non the less.. Regards.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm not familiar with Bosny "flakes." The candy tone itself pertains to the clear overlay color (honda/yamaha red), and not the buffer (gold/silver). Bosny gold and chrome (black cans) are not ideal as buffers because they are too thick and tend to dull when sprayed over with candy tones. There's a technique to using them, but it's too tedious in the long run, and not ideal for quick work.

      Delete
  9. Awesome job, I have painted a Wing Gundam ZEW and use that Titanium White you described (flat white-pearl white-flat clear) and looks awesome, now I want to paint another, but the parts are totally white, still must I use a flat white base or can I spray the white pearl on it directly and then flat coat? Whats the pros and cons thank you very much!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes. The flat white is both primer and base coat.

      Delete
  10. Great read. Very informative. You mentioned that you used nickel chrome in your sinanju? Dud you use bosny nickel alloy or bosny chrome?

    ReplyDelete
  11. Great read. Very informative. You mentioned that you used nickel chrome in your sinanju. Did you use bosny nickel alloy or bosny chrome?

    ReplyDelete
  12. Nickel Alloy. Chrome is very tricky to use, and often dulls with any overcoat.

    ReplyDelete
  13. Hi Sir, first off, thank you for this wonderful information. I just have a questiin for you, and I hope you can answer me back, hmm.. is there a particular order in spraying with cans to achieve a metallic result? I am planning to do this with a few of my kits , but I have no experience at all with painting, I wish you could help me out.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The order is simply Flat black/primer> Gold/Silver/Nickel> Red.

      Delete
    2. Sir is this applicable to other colors like blue to have a metallic finish?

      Delete
  14. Hi there. I want to try bosny but their paints are a bit limmited. Are there other cheap alternatives besides bosny?
    Also If let's I've bought the Bosny Light grey(Still too dark), would a white primer help lighten the color?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. In terms of spray cans, no. You will have to employ air or hand brushing with other paint types with more color selection.

      Delete
  15. can you pose more pictures of your sinanju? the one with 2 tone red. also did you paint flat black on the underside of the red parts? the nickel alloy paint, is it also bosny?
    thanks for the info

    ReplyDelete
  16. I will try, but, I currently don't have any extra time to do shoots at the moment. Besides, I believe there are enough shots of the Impaler for you to look at.

    ReplyDelete
  17. Good Day sir do you have idea in how to paint chrome finish gold using cans? is it really possible?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's possible, but inadvisable, for one, Bosny silver and gold chrome are difficult to use, unpredictable, and too thick especially for details. I avoid those paints, since I don't see the logic of mobile suits with mirror-like finish.

      Delete
  18. thanks for this useful and informative post.. i just have few questions, hope u can answer them becoz i want to paint a kit and im a newbie in this hobby...
    first.. did you sand the parts before painting or you just spray paint on it directly??
    second.. where is the exact location where you buy the spray paints on divi.. im not that familiar at 168 mall...
    third.. what kind of top coat do i need to give it a flat like finish but with some gloss aka semi gloss... :)

    ReplyDelete
  19. Use googlemaps to look for 168 mall at Divisoria. I also posted the EXACT location / stall where I get Bosny paints, just put a little more effort to look for it.

    Bosny does not have semi-gloss, but flat clear over metallic/candy-tone, leaves a titanium-like sheen that is neither flat nor glossy.

    ReplyDelete
  20. Hi sir, just bought my mg sinanju yesterday and i've been researching a lot to achieve the best look for this kit using spray cans, any thoughts or suggestion on what gold spray paint should i use in the sleeves and shiled?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I use Bosny gold 351 in most cases, but, for trims and details, I often hand-paint those with Vallejo Gold.

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  21. Great tips. Does Bosny have a gunmetal similar to Tamiya?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Not really. The closest analog is Anodized Antique 113, which is somewhat a light metallic gray.

      Delete
  22. Hi friends, I have a old gold plated wrist watch but gold plating on it is almost chipped off. I want to revive the watch using Bosny gold paint. Which particular colour would you advice me to use for this purpose? Will this colour be long lasting?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Repainting it with any gold paint won't be much help, plating is very much different from paint. Also, the paint will chip off faster because of the acid in sweat.

      Delete
  23. Boss,planning to repaint my tallgeese 3 to a gold 183 as a base then lined with signal red 23 and metallic black 1139. Is my choice of paints okay? Or is there a much more suitable combination. Nkaka elibs paintjobs mo,sana maabot ko skill level mo

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Signal Red and Metallic Black are opaque paints. You'll need to use clear paints over gold/silver buffers.

      Delete
  24. Excuse first thank you this is very informative. I have a question to how to get drak metallic blue for my banshee...??? Any suggestions.

    ReplyDelete

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