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The Chimera's V-Fin

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One of the things I didn't like about the Unicorn is its flimsy folding V-Fin.  I've heard horror stories from early Unicorn owners about how easily it can break if the kit happens to fall down from a table (that can be attributed to its weak double jointed ankles.).  This weakness however, won;t really matter afterward as you may see in a while.

I've made and customized V-Fins before, so this wasn't really much of a challenge.  I got two large-enough scrap pieces of 1.0mm plaplates, cut/trimmed/shaved them according to the shape I had in mind, taking note of the symmetry, and stuck them on the base of the single Unicorn horn.  I trimmed off the horn up the point shown.



Random Modifications

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PG 00 Waist Modification

I've modified my PG 00's waist to add a little height to the torso. Like always I used 1.0mm plaplates for the armor sheets and beams for support and connectors.





Before


After





I also modified the Shoulder Fin so it won't obstruct the head movement.






NG Astraea Waist Modification:

This is a modification similar to what Erix93 did to his Exia (http://www.ebasenet.com/progress-GundamExia_E2.htm) a few years back. Erix was actually one of the people who inspired me to do modifications. I've extended the modification to give the chest a swivel similar to that of the MG Exia. Trying to figure out where and how to cut the chest frame took longer than it did actually cutting the darned thing, mainly because I had to maintain the critical connective parts that would hold the shoulder joints, but also be able to put a pivot on the chest.

First off, I separated the lower waist from the abdominal section and mounted an aftermarket polycap cup/b…

Flashback!

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UPDATE:   While checking my stats, I chanced upon a web search for my blog title, and within it, my original WIP at ZeroG for the infinity.  I believe I am encountering the same problems now as I did back then, so I might refer to the modifications I did with that one.  I believe that that WIP also made me shy away from using putty because of how messy it can be, but, I might try using Selley's, which is what DonC has been using and highly recommend.

Check it out HERE.

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I was rummaging in my surplus parts stash when I found the Vfin I designed for my very fist attempt at full modification I codenamed Infinity about a couple of years ago.  I abandoned the project, which was a bastardized 00, which I bought as soon as I saw it at STC Makati.  That kit later on became part of my 00Q kitbash along with my first Exia (which was also the first kit I bought when I restarted my collection 3 years ago).  That kitbash project, coincidentally, got abandoned as well because I sensed th…

Poll: Which should I build?

I'm still on "break," though that doesn't necessarily mean I don't have Gunpla in my mind.  I have been "fixing" my PG 00 (it's not damaged or anything) and will eventually post something about it later on, along with nicer shot pictures of the Chimera and the Angelus.  My place is still quite a mess and I haven't really cleaned up too much, at least not enough to do a decent shoot.

So, I'll try a "speculative poll," as to what I should build next.  No matter how I try, I just don't have the speed of DonC in building these things, but, who knows?  I might get hit by lightning and gain powers of hyperspeed, which can come rather useful in speeding up my modifications.  I might get an AB early next year, and might even start auctioning off certain projects or accept commissions.

On to the poll, the choices are:

1:60 Masurao/Susanowo 1:100 Turn X 1:100 Gerbera Tetra 1:60/1:100 Arche Gundam 1:100 00Q Prototype An entirely ne…

The Directionality of Plastics Part II

Note:  Read this ONLY if you are interested in trivial matters because this is a long one.



David D, from Canada, asked:

Interesting post. Though this brings up relevant which is, how you test the directionality of the plastic without bending it like you did? And what about curved surfaces? I guess those have to have directionality as well, but in that case, should we send along the curve or the direction of the plastic. Just wondering.
(This was one of the comments from DoP Part I)

To which I replied:

One can't really test for directionality using any other method, but, for molded thermoplastics especially curved surfaces, it's always safer to assume it's along the line of the longer curve. Most modern kits, specifically the PS armors, have more panel lines inside than out. I believe those are placed there to increase the strength of the molded plastic rather than for show.

Also, plastic can be molded from one gate, but, why do we have molded parts injected in …

The Angelus and The Chimera: First Glance...

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Photo Finish, both sans their backpack attachments.



See you guys at the BAKWC.

Black Red, and Gold!

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The expert who didn't want to argue is still arguing about the difference of injection molded plastics and sheet plastic when I've reiterated it had no bearing in the discussion, and the one who claims to be ignoring me and my posts is checking out my blog.

Kewl.  I've always known that guy was too insecure for his own good.  I don't often talk about issues like these on my blog, not that I don't consider them any less important, but there are times that even I run out of patience or get annoyed with the very same type of people.  I'm still human after all.

Anyways, Murphy's starting to rear his ugly head as I enter the final leg of the build and, I realized the grainyness of the metallics are quite reduced if I don't layer them with black or another color.
Here's the shield of the Angelus.  The gold stands out quite nicely against the black and red.  The "Stringy" texture is done by scribbling lines using Technical pen over Flat Black.  …

The Directionality of Plastic

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Does plastic have grain or directionality?

Looking back a bit, there was someone from one forum who disagreed with me as to whether or not the LED modules that came with the MG Exia IM can be disassembled or not in order to replace the LEDs with that of another color. He said they can't be disassembled, vehemently stating it as a note (because I was supposedly being ignored), whereas I demonstrated that it can be disassembled, with pictures.

Sadly, for one other guy in that same forum, this is one of those cases where one contest what I say in the context of his "expertise."  I'm not saying he doesn't know anything or what he said was wrong, nor do I contest what he has said in the context of thermoplastics, but, I'm saying he doesn't know what I know through experience, and I simply won't say anything here or anywhere just because I feel like it. When I say something, you can be sure it's not hogwash.

I am currently reworking the Wi…

Gold!

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No, I'm not talking about that song by Spandau Ballet.  I still have more than half a can of Gold 351 from last year's Ronin build and that's what I used here to create a stark contrast from the main color scheme and accents. The small one was the prototype I did a few weeks back, and instead of making it a "museum piece" as I have mentioned before, I decided to use it for the final build since the gosh darn thing is difficult to sculpt on 1.0mm plate and I'm not sure If I have enough time to sculpt another one.. It took me a good half day to do the larger one for the shield, and despite the small difference in scale/size, it was much easier to cut and shape.



Things of beauty, aren't they?

Anyways, I'm getting an itch to rebuild the Angelus wings because of weight and articulation issues, but I'll tackle that today along with a rather "simple" diorama. I'm procrastinating again, mainly because I have finished the maj…

Mishaps, Contemplation and More Kossute Magic

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As the BACWC draws near and most everyone are doing the finishing touches on their entries, I've also slowed down a bit from painting especially with the weather changing like a woman who can't make her mind which donut to pick.  In my experience, I've been able to "sense" the weather changes and adjust how I paint parts.  The good thing about painting with cans is one can work quickly even with layered colors because of their fast drying properties and most primer-based paints like the Flat Black I adore so much doesn't really care what kind of weather there was (or for that matter, what mood I was in).  With flat black, my layering works still, but with longer drying times since I was going for a smooth finish instead of textured this time off. 

I've had a few mishaps, but, nothing I can't handle.  I've finished the Chimera in less than week, considering that painting that monstrosity was a PAIN to begin with with all the parts interlocking wi…

Zaku/Sinanju Cables Quick Sanding Tip

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(Note: I'm not sure if anyone else does it this way, but this is the same method I used more than a year ago with my first Sinanju.)

If you've ever built a Zaku or a Sinanju, I share your pain in sanding the nubs off the teeny tiny cable modules. Here's a quick way of sanding and painting those buggers.

Get a runner stem with a diameter small enough to fit the Cable module and long enough to fit at least three rows (12 pcs). If the runner stem is too thin, wound enough tape around it so that the module will fit snugly and won't slide freely while mounted on the runner, but not too tightly to allow it to slide enough for distance adjustments.



These modules are often cut at angles so they form a "closed" cable around curved sections. Use this to your advantage by aligning them opposite one another (see picture). Once done, cut the rest of the nubs as close as possible and sand the rest away including minute mold lines that become more visibl…

The Chimera Borne Part IX

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Clawed.  The storm came in as I added the finishing touches to the main kit.  I felt the weather change as the temperature dropped and the wind started to blow, taking with it much of the humidity that accumulated.  I'm glad that the sudden change did not affect the curing paint, as I really don't want to redo anything.  I've had a few mishaps and misfires which I have easily fixed, and I've noticed that I could work faster with cans even with the changing weather.  I screwed up the shield earlier since I used a paint that smelled like Tamiya Basic Putty and dried/cured just as slow, so I had to forego the effect I was going for with that paint.

Anyways, another snippet.  I decided to sharpen the Lion Claws, for maximum effect and consistency with the Dragon Blade and Ram Daggers.


I also had the idea of making the claws independent from each other for that middle finger action, but decided against it because of stability issues.

Edit:

More sneak pics...






Just in case yo…

The Chimera Borne Part VIII

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Procrastinating.

As the days pass me by,
with Bosny getting me high
I look back to the itch
that started this all.

The deadline looms so close
and I continually scratch my nose
I stop every now and then
And my build comes to a crawl.

I'm almost well and done
and sure do I have fun
but somehow something seems
to make my body stall.

With still a ways to go
there is no way to know
I got to answer that
one last delaying call.


Here's how a jumble of painted parts looks like.



I sure do dig RED.

And here's the RAM SHIELD,


Which should give you an Idea of the color scheme.  As of this post, only the feet, hands and the scratch0built, er, backpack, remain unpainted.


The Chimera Borne Part VII

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The mods are 90-95% complete, then it's off to painting and the diorama. I'll say again that this has been the most challenging project I've tackled as of yet. I'll be very "tame" in painting this. I won't be posting any more full updates, but a few snippets every now and then. I'll keep the major scratch-build under wraps until November 5. For the meantime, here's a sneak peek.





What a jumble of parts prepped for painting looks like.



Some of the modified parts. The Ram shield is now lightly detailed.



The modified back pack. This one is a simple modification to fit the polycap attachments. The plaplates are added to "lock" the modifications in place when the pack is assembled

The Chimera Borne Part VI

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I've finished the Lion Claws and have begun sanding the parts. This is also the first time I've employed wet sanding with 2000 grit paper and I'm quite amazed how it actually helps smooth the plastic, giving it back its factory shine.

I've only one minor modification to do, and it's painting time, during which, I will do a major scratch build that will complete the Chimera. I intentionally made it the last build of the project since the Chimera can stand without it, just in case I ran out of time while doing the diorama.

Carbonized. I've done the "carbon metal" look with the Jinx and was quite satisfied with how it turned out, so I decided to employ this on the frame of the Chimera, as well as the weapons.



To achieve this, I used my all-around paint of choice Bosny Flat Black. This paint is rather versatile since I can use it both as a primer and base coat. I'm not too fond of glossy or semi-glossy blacks anyways, so this one is a mainstay in my…

The Chimera Borne Part V

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Rammed. It's been bugging me that I needed to have a Ram head somewhere. Looking at the shield gave me a rather nice idea (then it was later confirmed by someone else), to place the Ram on the shield. The holes does make it seem there's a face there somewhere, and all it really took was adding a couple of horns and voila!



I've also modified the Shield attachment for a hand-held look.

Clawed. I actually had this idea after the Lion head modification, but wasn't quite sure if it would work at all. I've seen some claw modifications elsewhere, and I didn't really want to spend too much time trying to figure out how it would look like or how I'll execute it because I wanted something retractable without making it overly huge.

Again, with plaplate sandwich magic, I made claws arranged in a way that it should just cover the back of the Chimera's hand. I've also modified the hand plate to reduce the thickness I have to contend with. It's a good thing tha…